Roughly translated, Zooekhaneh means “house of strength”. It’s an ancient Iranian gym that was established when occupiers banned combat training for Iranians, and people started to train their bodies and minds in underground sport clubs. For this reason, the training tools are unique in shape and how

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they’re used. They almost resemble ancient weaponry like maces, bows and shields.

The moves are completed in a collective manner, led by the musician Morshed, who chants sacred poetry while keeping time with a drum called Tombak. It is played with fingertips in the musician’s lap, alongside ringing brass bells that mark the beginning of different sections. Here, they do not call themselves athletes but “pahlevan”. No one takes this word lightly since it is a collection of attributes that not every person can acquire. Pahlevan means to be tough, mighty, capable, brave, sturdy, disciplinarian and a champion. It is an embodiment of the phrase, “with great power comes great responsibility.”

This highly spiritual atmosphere made me think of floating bodies that, while keeping their individuality, blend in with every component of the space. They work out while they are standing in a circle and face each other doing the same moves. It’s often hard to distinguish between them, as if they are all part of a bigger whole. As they spin rhythmically and in harmony with the drum beats and they get faster, arms stretched out, it becomes even harder to distinguish them from their surroundings. This shadow of bodies inspired how I showcase the body in my own work. As the body moves and its shape transforms, I wanted to distort it and have it blend into its surroundings.

In order to achieve this and develop my concept I implemented two main elements. The most important was fabric research and focus on material. Although material is a key element in every collection, in this instance choosing the right material that could function as an item of clothing while distorting the body was critical. Therefore, I chose to work with a variety of transparent and semi-transparent fabrics with different textures and colors. The juxtaposition and layering of transparent fabrics like organza, latex, cotton gauze and transparent brocade offered the opportunity to show a vague and blurry picture of the body without actually revealing it fully.

I adopted the unique shape of the workout tools, round and smooth like cocoons and droplets, close to my own personal aesthetics, to create my silhouettes. Draping these shapes created different effects like layering, positive and negative spaces, and voluminous movement of fabric. In addition, instead of using straight lines for seaming, I expanded the adoption of these circular and organic lines. Sewing the curved lines together helped me develop shapes and silhouettes that move around the body, further distorting them instead of highlighting their features.

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Type

Prints, Textiles, Womenswear, Tailoring, Pattern cutting

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