Ottolinger’s AW17 collection continues the duo’s conjuring of an identity beyond a dichotomy of strong and soft, sexy and smart. Tops and pants sewn from bandages in nude or dyed blue speak of a self that is simultaneously being held together by the same as it communicates an idea of beauty unconcern
ed with standardised notions of glamour, which is punk, which can laugh about itself, too. Paired with a felt coat, the Ottolinger woman seems to have escaped the dystopian Transmetropolitan. In combination with the label’s clean denim designs, she seems to yearn for it. The aesthetic of the cyberpunk DC Comic leaves its traces elsewhere in the collection, but its influence is communicated nowhere more clearly than in Ottolinger’s understanding of time as non-linear. A hoodie sporting a blown-up weed leaf on its chest, tie-dye dresses and a variety of plaid are heavily associated with the time millennials called their childhood. Yet, the label’s reimagining of these motifs by no mean are to be read as nostalgia. Consistency is an inherently simplistic idea. Committing to following one’s aesthetic and spiritual instincts
is as close as we get to it.
Ottolinger’s AW17 collection thus continues themes from their previous collections – shirts with holes torched into them, cut and knotted-up dresses – and adds to its vocabulary materials and patterns that vibe with the complexity the label celebrates.
Ottolinger’s recurrent theme, speaking to a particular sense of
humor, is experiment.
March 6, 2017
Prints, Knitwear, Textiles, Womenswear, Tailoring, Outerwear, Pattern cutting, T-shirt, Jersey, Deconstructed couture
Printing, Knit, Tie-dye, Burning, Bandage patternmaking, Knotting
Denim, Leather, Felt, Wool, Cotton, Cashmere, Tartan, Bandage
Photoshop, Indesign, Illustrator, Excel